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darshan shah

threads, ties & transformation

“I came into textiles by chance, my innovation is fuelled by my lack of academic training. From Jakarta to Bangladesh, I’ve had the privilege of studying the art of collaborative textiles at a grassroot level, learning from the masters themselves.”

Through a journey ignited by travel and knowledge sharing, our founder, Darshan Shah has built a creative index of her own, bringing wearable textiles to the public domain. This collection features one-of-a-kind craft masterpieces created over the years that are emblematic of the textile innovator’s aptitude for experimentation, tying threads from across cultures and transforming them into multi-faceted artworks.…”

Ds Look 01 Min

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This tussar silk textile inspired by Bauhaus architecture takes on an abstract spin. Featuring free-hand Sujni Kantha, the grid-like motifs and non-repeat design celebrate the beauty in irregularity.

“I came into textiles by chance, my innovation is fuelled by my lack of academic training. From Jakarta to Bangladesh, I’ve had the privilege of studying the art of collaborative textiles at a grassroot level, learning from the masters themselves.”

Through a journey ignited by travel and knowledge sharing, our founder, Darshan Shah has built a creative index of her own, bringing wearable textiles to the public domain. This collection features one-of-a-kind craft masterpieces created over the years that are emblematic of the textile innovator’s aptitude for experimentation, tying threads from across cultures and transforming them into multi-faceted artworks.…”

Ds Look 02 Min
story-graphic

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Inspired by an archival textile from The Weavers Studio Resource Centre, this Nakshi Kantha panel features birds and floral motifs, embroidered with cotton threads, the versatile textile acts as a table-runner and a wall-hanging.

“In a book by Rosemary Crill about the different tie-dye techniques of India, it spoke about how threads were central to all techniques – how each thread played a role in changing the form of the final design. Threads that tie and transform are similar to life experiences, where your imagination is your limitation, and nothing else.”

Ds Look 03 Min

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A Shibori sari bearing leheriya chevrons in a vibrant hue of blood orange. A ‘Samosa’ backline finish in contrasting triangular silhouette adds weight to this diaphanous textile.

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A woven ‘Shibori’ headscarf dipped in natural indigo.

Her long standing relationship with the Japanese textile industry inspired Darshan to introduce shibori into Weavers Studio’s repertoire. She subverted Rajasthan’s quintessential leheriya design, creating its familiar zig-zag pattern purely through shibori, showcasing a contrast of origins but a congruity of tie-dye. Similarly, she traded in the time-intensive shibori process but reiterated its effect by weaving a scarf on a jacquard loom, the unfinished yarns were then pulled to create a crinkled look and dyed with natural indigo. The end result – a preciously textured textile that undulates to reveal a dune-like veneer.

2 41 4 (1)

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From the archives – Arshilata kantha, featuring a cotton base and embroidery done with cotton threads originating from Bengal, possibly Midnapore; mid-19th century.
2 41 14

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Inspired by the heritage textile, this recreation features intricate kantha work, a departure from the typical motifs to a figurative form of storytelling.
Ds Look 07 Min

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A languid tussar silk shawl with primary-coloured kantha embroidery, the minute detailing and self-on-self texture is created by a single artisan over a period of one year.

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The paisley motif synonymous with Kashmir’s Pashmina shawls found patronage amongst the Zamindars of Bengal and were integrated into kantha embroidery. This lavish silk textile features a central mandala motif fringed with a time-travelling narrative of majestic elephants and breezy boat rides.

“Kantha has been integral to the folk-art culture of Bengal. ‘Naksha’ which means drawing in Persian is synonymous with the Nakshi kantha technique, women used to upcycle old sari borders and dhotis by embroidering motifs inspired by their social surroundings, their form of artistic expression, where no two pieces were alike.”

Ds Look 09 Min
story-graphic

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A patchwork of various kantha stitches collide to birth a mosaic of a dupatta where each shape bears a varied intricacy and offers an independent tactile experience.

“Textiles are a common language across disciplines. The intention is to value-add by technique, how a basic piece can be made architectural, more wearable. We have made things that we might not be able to produce again within our personal diaspora, however each one is unique.”

Ds Look 10 Min

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Drawing influences from friend and Alaskan artist Helga Berry’s work with Felt, Darshan chose to create a Bauhaus-themed textile using wool which is layered with kantha, hand-painted and hand-brushed in natural dyes.
Inspiration from our library: Bauhaus Textiles by Sigrid Wortmann Weltge.

“We don’t view fabric as material, but as a catalyst. A forward-thinking approach has allowed us to bring out the basic essence of the technique and transform it with a boundary-pushing vision. These textiles have a synergy and energy that brought out the best in my team and I.”

Bc Look 13

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A conversation starter, the reversible stole features a contrasting backline finish in a sunny mustard hue, hand embroidered with similar kantha work.
Bc Look 12

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A case of fabric manipulation at its finest, this vibrant purple silk stole is embroidered with intricate kantha embroidery, the tiny geometric patterns give an illusion of a Bandhini pattern.
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ABOUT Darshan Shah

I am an entrepreneur with a passion for learning and documenting historical textiles.

Explore my world @weaversstudiokolkata

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Photography  Amitava Saha

Creative Direction  Tanya Mehta

Art Direction  Alisha Prasad

Words  Tanya Mehta

threads, ties & transformation