Batik silk sari designed by Jamuna Sen, made by Karu Sangha

Batik Sari

Design by Jamuna SenMade by Karu Sangha; individual maker unknownSantiniketan, India, 1980s

Materials & techniques
Silk, batik; wax resist and dyes
Collection
Mita Chakraborty

Object details

This sari was produced by Karu Sangha in the 1980s, from a design by Jamuna Sen.

The individual maker remains unnamed, reflecting the collective nature of Karu Sangha’s production, in which the work of skilled women was often identified through the association rather than by individual name.

Set against a brown ground, the sari is covered with a closely knit composition of white alpona-inspired forms. The dense arrangement creates an effect reminiscent of alpona drawn directly onto a surface: rather than appearing as isolated motifs, the white lines and forms come together as a continuous, compact field. The close spacing gives the design a strong visual rhythm while allowing the underlying brown ground to remain an active part of the composition.

The design also demonstrates an economy of colour and production. Restricting the sari to a brown ground and a single contrasting white design means that the textile requires only one dyeing process, making it relatively straightforward and economical to produce. Such considerations were important to the development of Karu Sangha’s commercial batik, where the visual language of Kala Bhavana could be translated into designs that were both distinctive and practical for repeated production.

Here, Jamuna Sen’s compact composition brings together the visual character of hand-drawn alpona with the efficiencies of batik production, illustrating how Santiniketan’s artistic vocabulary was adapted for a growing commercial textile market.

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